'The Sierras of Extremadura' is published by Cicerone — www.cicerone.co.uk
The inspiration for the book
Extremadura is wild and natural in the big scheme of places yet it still manages an intimacy that is friendly and secure. Right from my first walk here, nearly 20 years ago, I felt part of the enormity of the space and had an affinity with the endless views from the sierras that showed me no electricity carriers, no wind farms, no radio masts, no roads, no houses and no people. All I saw were mountain ranges, rolling hills, endless forests, placid lakes, meandering rivers, grazing animals and blue skies. I like that. Other views showed small villages, separate and scattered in the countryside and these distinct, inhabited places are the havens of security, tapas and cool beers — an important part of walking life. The small, granite-paved footpaths that connect villages or cross mountain ranges and link autonomous regions are hundreds, if not thousands of years old. There are countless soft earth footpaths that run for hours through deciduous forests and there are tracks criss-crossing almost everywhere. I like the connection to the many people who walked here before me.
The walks in this book are really special because I have chosen each one to show off the space, magnificence and natural beauty so indicative of Extremadura. I know they will have a wide appeal to walkers who want to explore here for the first time but equally for people who have been here before. Four of the walks are classic sierra routes and appeared in the first book. They have been rewalked and revised for the new book. The rest of the walks are new. Some areas and some walks are altogether unknown — but not for much longer. The linked walks have taken a lot of planning in order to make them work and give much longer, harder walks for intrepid walkers with stamina who want whole day adventures. I am especially delighted with the walks in the Sierra de Gredos. They were great days of walking and exploring but I still owe a debt of gratitude to the sheep farmer who found me confused at a five-way path option that simply wasn’t on the map — it is now!
'The Sierras of Extremadura' contains:
The walks have been chosen to reflect the diversity of walking in the sierras of Extremadura. All the walks involve some climbing but none require mountaineering skills. The average fit walker can complete all the walks although some of the climbs will need to be paced. The longer links require fitness and stamina as they are quite tough. Good walking boots are essential to tackle the different types of terrain and walking poles are useful on the climbs.
Cicerone has information on their web site.
www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/848/title/the-sierras-of-extremadura#.WbZkSKNh0mo
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sierras-Extremadura-full-day-western-International/dp/1852848480/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1536228954&sr=1-1&keywords=The+Sierras+of+Extremadura
Any changes to the routes will be posted here and updated as and when necessary. No post means no change.
Walk 5 Pages 57-61
The directions are all still the same but there are now wooden bridges to cross the river at the three points formerly where stepping stones were used. The path is still evident but at various places the rough path has been laid with slate and occasionally there are wooden handrails. Once at the waterfall the route continues on paths and tracks that have not been 'improved'. Obviously, a small village such as Ovejuela relies on week-end and tourist walkers who start the walk in the village, go to see the waterfall and then return to the village for refreshments. This part of the walk is now more accessible.
There is a small, 4.50km additional/optional walk that can be added to this route, either before or after the main walk. It is posted here.
Walk 8 Pages 71-75
This walk is now signposted but there seems to be some work underway on the path. I will post more when I get the time to go up and have a look at what is happening. As for refreshment choices in the village of La Garganta; the small bar that lies just off the parking area serves good tapas and nice cold drinks but is only open at weekends now. If you plan to walk the two La Muela routes you will need to take some supplies from Baños de Montemayor before you drive up to La Garganta as there really is no guarantee anything at all will be open in the week. (02.08.2024)
Walk 10 & 11 Pages 84 & 89
A wooden bridge has been constructed over the ford. It is high enough to clear flood waters. Permutations of these walks are now possible all year round.
Walks 15, 16 & 17
There has been a recent programme of identifying and signposting local walks in the Sierra de Montánchez. There are waymarked in white and green but also have finger signposts at intervals. These signposts are new and so not referred to in walks 15 and 16 where one or two signposts and waymarks may cross the path of those walks. (21.08.2018)
Walk 15 Page 109
Park anywhere in the open area at the top of Calle Altozano. Walk straight towards the four antenna ahead on the concrete road to reach a Y-junction with the antenna and a small concrete lane to the right. Go left. Pass a turning on the left and take the one, right, a few paces further on. There is a new finger signpost at this junction with three options. Follow the one marked ‘SL-CC7 Ruta de las Atolladeras’. There is also a white and yellow cross on the wall on the left plus a white and green waymark. Walk on the rough track and follow it to pass the ruin of a mill on the left. Cross a small ford, the first of many, and continue as the track winds and narrows. Come to a small open space which is a vague crossroads but the main track continues ahead towards some double metal gates where the track bends right. On the right are views of the villages of Arroyomolinos and Alcuéscar behind. Reach a distinctive boulder on the left with a signpost opposite. Ignore a junction, left, and continue ahead. Come to a few outbuildings on both sides of the track with a wide space with multiple gateways. Here the track bends left. Just before a wide T-junction there is a white and green post with a waymark on the right but take the left track away from the village. After about 100m, up on the left, are three low stone crosses; difficult to see against the background of the sierra. Reach a signpost on the left, ‘Mirador de las Tres Cruces 25m’ and if you want to see the crosses make the small diversion at this point. Walk until a long, grey outbuilding is reached on the right and a red one is straight ahead. There is a junction. Turn left on to a wide track to put the red outbuilding on your right. There is a white and green waymark.
Continue the walk as directed … (21.08.2018)
Walk 17 Page 123
The ‘tiniest of paths’ referred to may be partly obscured by low-growing vegetation in the Summer months. (21.08.2018)
Walk 23 Pages 153-159
This land over which this walk goes has new owners. They are not continuing with the decades-old concession for walkers to use the footpaths. The land is now fenced, gated and locked and has be declared a hunting reserve. A shorter version of the walk can be done by following the turning described in paragraph two on page 156 but really, the best part of the walk — the views from Pico Venero and the walk through the chestnut woods — can no longer be enjoyed. The shorter version is 10.20km.
Walk 32 Pages 208-212
The tiny turning to visit the Castle Tower and see the stunning views from near the top of the Sierra de Aguafría is signposted courtesy of the Tourist Office. It is a public right of way. The problem is that the owners of the land do not want people to walk on their land. They pull up the sign and throw it into the hedge every time the Tourist Board puts the signpost back. I have had a long talk with Enrique, the Tourist Officer in Monesterio, about this on more than one occasion. It's an on-going problem that seems to have no solution. The best I can do is post the exact GPS, although the evidence of the signpost thrown in the hedge nearby is a bit of a help, as well. The turning is on the right, going down, and the GPS is:
N38° 02' 57.68" W06°15' 59.97"
The inspiration for the book
Extremadura is wild and natural in the big scheme of places yet it still manages an intimacy that is friendly and secure. Right from my first walk here, nearly 20 years ago, I felt part of the enormity of the space and had an affinity with the endless views from the sierras that showed me no electricity carriers, no wind farms, no radio masts, no roads, no houses and no people. All I saw were mountain ranges, rolling hills, endless forests, placid lakes, meandering rivers, grazing animals and blue skies. I like that. Other views showed small villages, separate and scattered in the countryside and these distinct, inhabited places are the havens of security, tapas and cool beers — an important part of walking life. The small, granite-paved footpaths that connect villages or cross mountain ranges and link autonomous regions are hundreds, if not thousands of years old. There are countless soft earth footpaths that run for hours through deciduous forests and there are tracks criss-crossing almost everywhere. I like the connection to the many people who walked here before me.
The walks in this book are really special because I have chosen each one to show off the space, magnificence and natural beauty so indicative of Extremadura. I know they will have a wide appeal to walkers who want to explore here for the first time but equally for people who have been here before. Four of the walks are classic sierra routes and appeared in the first book. They have been rewalked and revised for the new book. The rest of the walks are new. Some areas and some walks are altogether unknown — but not for much longer. The linked walks have taken a lot of planning in order to make them work and give much longer, harder walks for intrepid walkers with stamina who want whole day adventures. I am especially delighted with the walks in the Sierra de Gredos. They were great days of walking and exploring but I still owe a debt of gratitude to the sheep farmer who found me confused at a five-way path option that simply wasn’t on the map — it is now!
'The Sierras of Extremadura' contains:
- 32 walks described in five mountain ranges incorporating 25 smaller sierras
- A total of 404km of paths and tracks covered in walks of 6.00km to 19.20km
- 10 options to link walks of up to 26.20km
- Illustrated with clear, colour sketch maps
- With detailed route information supported by additional points of interest
The walks have been chosen to reflect the diversity of walking in the sierras of Extremadura. All the walks involve some climbing but none require mountaineering skills. The average fit walker can complete all the walks although some of the climbs will need to be paced. The longer links require fitness and stamina as they are quite tough. Good walking boots are essential to tackle the different types of terrain and walking poles are useful on the climbs.
Cicerone has information on their web site.
www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/848/title/the-sierras-of-extremadura#.WbZkSKNh0mo
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sierras-Extremadura-full-day-western-International/dp/1852848480/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1536228954&sr=1-1&keywords=The+Sierras+of+Extremadura
Any changes to the routes will be posted here and updated as and when necessary. No post means no change.
Walk 5 Pages 57-61
The directions are all still the same but there are now wooden bridges to cross the river at the three points formerly where stepping stones were used. The path is still evident but at various places the rough path has been laid with slate and occasionally there are wooden handrails. Once at the waterfall the route continues on paths and tracks that have not been 'improved'. Obviously, a small village such as Ovejuela relies on week-end and tourist walkers who start the walk in the village, go to see the waterfall and then return to the village for refreshments. This part of the walk is now more accessible.
There is a small, 4.50km additional/optional walk that can be added to this route, either before or after the main walk. It is posted here.
Walk 8 Pages 71-75
This walk is now signposted but there seems to be some work underway on the path. I will post more when I get the time to go up and have a look at what is happening. As for refreshment choices in the village of La Garganta; the small bar that lies just off the parking area serves good tapas and nice cold drinks but is only open at weekends now. If you plan to walk the two La Muela routes you will need to take some supplies from Baños de Montemayor before you drive up to La Garganta as there really is no guarantee anything at all will be open in the week. (02.08.2024)
Walk 10 & 11 Pages 84 & 89
A wooden bridge has been constructed over the ford. It is high enough to clear flood waters. Permutations of these walks are now possible all year round.
Walks 15, 16 & 17
There has been a recent programme of identifying and signposting local walks in the Sierra de Montánchez. There are waymarked in white and green but also have finger signposts at intervals. These signposts are new and so not referred to in walks 15 and 16 where one or two signposts and waymarks may cross the path of those walks. (21.08.2018)
Walk 15 Page 109
Park anywhere in the open area at the top of Calle Altozano. Walk straight towards the four antenna ahead on the concrete road to reach a Y-junction with the antenna and a small concrete lane to the right. Go left. Pass a turning on the left and take the one, right, a few paces further on. There is a new finger signpost at this junction with three options. Follow the one marked ‘SL-CC7 Ruta de las Atolladeras’. There is also a white and yellow cross on the wall on the left plus a white and green waymark. Walk on the rough track and follow it to pass the ruin of a mill on the left. Cross a small ford, the first of many, and continue as the track winds and narrows. Come to a small open space which is a vague crossroads but the main track continues ahead towards some double metal gates where the track bends right. On the right are views of the villages of Arroyomolinos and Alcuéscar behind. Reach a distinctive boulder on the left with a signpost opposite. Ignore a junction, left, and continue ahead. Come to a few outbuildings on both sides of the track with a wide space with multiple gateways. Here the track bends left. Just before a wide T-junction there is a white and green post with a waymark on the right but take the left track away from the village. After about 100m, up on the left, are three low stone crosses; difficult to see against the background of the sierra. Reach a signpost on the left, ‘Mirador de las Tres Cruces 25m’ and if you want to see the crosses make the small diversion at this point. Walk until a long, grey outbuilding is reached on the right and a red one is straight ahead. There is a junction. Turn left on to a wide track to put the red outbuilding on your right. There is a white and green waymark.
Continue the walk as directed … (21.08.2018)
Walk 17 Page 123
The ‘tiniest of paths’ referred to may be partly obscured by low-growing vegetation in the Summer months. (21.08.2018)
Walk 23 Pages 153-159
This land over which this walk goes has new owners. They are not continuing with the decades-old concession for walkers to use the footpaths. The land is now fenced, gated and locked and has be declared a hunting reserve. A shorter version of the walk can be done by following the turning described in paragraph two on page 156 but really, the best part of the walk — the views from Pico Venero and the walk through the chestnut woods — can no longer be enjoyed. The shorter version is 10.20km.
Walk 32 Pages 208-212
The tiny turning to visit the Castle Tower and see the stunning views from near the top of the Sierra de Aguafría is signposted courtesy of the Tourist Office. It is a public right of way. The problem is that the owners of the land do not want people to walk on their land. They pull up the sign and throw it into the hedge every time the Tourist Board puts the signpost back. I have had a long talk with Enrique, the Tourist Officer in Monesterio, about this on more than one occasion. It's an on-going problem that seems to have no solution. The best I can do is post the exact GPS, although the evidence of the signpost thrown in the hedge nearby is a bit of a help, as well. The turning is on the right, going down, and the GPS is:
N38° 02' 57.68" W06°15' 59.97"
The first book in English on Walking in Extremadura has now sold out!
ISBN: 978-84-89954-95-3
Format: 18cm x 12cm
350 colour pages and over 100 photos
Publication Date: October 2012
Each of the seven chapters has an introduction to the geography, history and natural environment of the area in which the walks are set. There are walks for every level of fitness and range from 3.5km all the way to a possible 50km of linked routes set in the Sierra de Gata. If you like your walking flat, routes start at 305m above sea level but there are climbs up to 1,487m for walkers who like a challenge. In addition to the 27 fully described walks, with IGN maps and GPS points, there are three historic city walks in Mérida, Cáceres and Trujillo, showing you the best of these cities, PLUS a further 20 suggested, named and signposted countryside routes.
ISBN: 978-84-89954-95-3
Format: 18cm x 12cm
350 colour pages and over 100 photos
Publication Date: October 2012
Each of the seven chapters has an introduction to the geography, history and natural environment of the area in which the walks are set. There are walks for every level of fitness and range from 3.5km all the way to a possible 50km of linked routes set in the Sierra de Gata. If you like your walking flat, routes start at 305m above sea level but there are climbs up to 1,487m for walkers who like a challenge. In addition to the 27 fully described walks, with IGN maps and GPS points, there are three historic city walks in Mérida, Cáceres and Trujillo, showing you the best of these cities, PLUS a further 20 suggested, named and signposted countryside routes.
Any changes to the routes will be posted here and updated as and when necessary. No post means no change.
The updating will continue even though this book is now out-of-print and there is a new one (see above).
Chapter 1 The Sierra de Montánchez
Walk 3
Between GPS 8 and GPS9, when you reach the small footpath it is blocked off by tree branches. Walk ahead into the finca just to the right of the footpath— there is no gate — and walk ahead, then turn left to descend the terrace. Hug the wall on the left. Turn left to pass through the dry stone wall into the footpath (that has been blocked further up). Continue with the walk as described in the book. Updated 17.12.2017
This part of the walk is getting more and more inaccessible but there is an alternative. Just by the huge granite water troughs between GPS 7 and GPS 8 turn left down the small track. Follow this track as it descends straight down to the small back road, the CC-160. Cross the road and you are at GPS 10. Continue the walk. Updated 27.02.2018
Walk 4
From 900 metres after GPS 4 up to the junction with the village, the footpath has been concreted. The verges have been left with bushes and flowers!
Chapter 2 The Roman Waters
Walk 1
The chiringuito, Lago Pinar, has been shut for several months. The owner retired and the new owners are not yet up-and-running. However, further to the south-west, just past the Red Cross station, is another café/restaurant with facilities and parking opposite. It is called Yuyu and open every day throughout the year. The food is good and they have a lovely terrace overlooking the water. (Posted 2.11.2019)
Walk 3
Between GPS 7 and 8, at the signpost indicating ‘Pinar Los Valencines’ the metal gates are locked. Walk the short, 8km, version of this walk only.
Chapter 3 The Sierra de Gata
Walk 2
Either follow the text or the map but for 500m the two do not coincide. After GPS4 “... come to a Y junction. Stay on the lane and ignore path, left” is correct (page 173). The line on the map shows the path going left to GPS6. You can go either way and won’t get lost but the text is the best guide. Additionally, GPS6 is correctly listed (page 177) but the position on the map is wrong. It should be 200m due west of GPS5.
Walk 4
A few of you have contacted me to say Calle del General Franco doesn’t exist. Yesterday I checked it out. It’s true. Calle de la Iglesia has replaced Calle del General Franco. This is because Spain is slowly renaming everything ‘Franco’. Here follows more specific starting directions ...
Start in the Plaza Mayor in San Martín de Trevejo. With the Town Hall porch on your right, walk straight ahead and up Calle de la Iglesia. Ahead is the church. Pass the church with it on your left. Turn first right. Have a quick look behind you. You should see the back of the church and a sign for Calle del Puerto. With your back to the church and the sign, walk straight up the road ignoring all junctions. Come to a T-junction and a sign pointing left for 'Calzada Romana’ ‘Sendero Puerto Santa Clara'. Go left. Walk straight up this wide lane. (Continue with the walk as described in the book).
Chapter 4 The Sierra de Gredos and La Vera
Walk 2
The church on page 240 is called San Agustín and not Santa María de la Torre.
Chapter 5 Monfragüe National Park
Chapter 6 Las Villuercas
Walk 2
This walk has been recently signposted in white and red. Between GPS3 and GPS4, once past the rockfall continue on the path to reach a cattle grid. Go straight over this cattle grid and follow the track as described in the book. Updated 17.12.2017.
Chapter 7 City Walks
Walk 1 Revised and updated and posted on this site under 'The Walks, City Walks, The Walk of the Roman Citizen (Mérida)'
Walk 2 Revised and updated and posted on this site under 'The Walks, City Walks, A Walk in a Renaissance City (Cáceres)'
Walk 3 Revised and updated and posted on this site under 'The Walks, City Walks, A Walk with Conquistadores (Trujillo)'
Slideshow:
The slideshow above shows a few scenes from 'The Sierras of Extremadura' Walk 8, Valley Route to La Muela
Huge granite boulders at the top of the climb out from the village of La Garganta
Looking west down towards the Ambroz Valley and the town of Hervás
View of the granite rock formation of La Muela (the tooth)
Snow on the Sierra de Béjar with pink flowering Spanish Heath in the foreground
View of the Sierra de Béjar looking back from the final path to La Muela
View from La Muela looking north towards the Province of Salamanca in Castile and León
La Muela (1605m) from the track going back to La Garganta
The updating will continue even though this book is now out-of-print and there is a new one (see above).
Chapter 1 The Sierra de Montánchez
Walk 3
Between GPS 8 and GPS9, when you reach the small footpath it is blocked off by tree branches. Walk ahead into the finca just to the right of the footpath— there is no gate — and walk ahead, then turn left to descend the terrace. Hug the wall on the left. Turn left to pass through the dry stone wall into the footpath (that has been blocked further up). Continue with the walk as described in the book. Updated 17.12.2017
This part of the walk is getting more and more inaccessible but there is an alternative. Just by the huge granite water troughs between GPS 7 and GPS 8 turn left down the small track. Follow this track as it descends straight down to the small back road, the CC-160. Cross the road and you are at GPS 10. Continue the walk. Updated 27.02.2018
Walk 4
From 900 metres after GPS 4 up to the junction with the village, the footpath has been concreted. The verges have been left with bushes and flowers!
Chapter 2 The Roman Waters
Walk 1
The chiringuito, Lago Pinar, has been shut for several months. The owner retired and the new owners are not yet up-and-running. However, further to the south-west, just past the Red Cross station, is another café/restaurant with facilities and parking opposite. It is called Yuyu and open every day throughout the year. The food is good and they have a lovely terrace overlooking the water. (Posted 2.11.2019)
Walk 3
Between GPS 7 and 8, at the signpost indicating ‘Pinar Los Valencines’ the metal gates are locked. Walk the short, 8km, version of this walk only.
Chapter 3 The Sierra de Gata
Walk 2
Either follow the text or the map but for 500m the two do not coincide. After GPS4 “... come to a Y junction. Stay on the lane and ignore path, left” is correct (page 173). The line on the map shows the path going left to GPS6. You can go either way and won’t get lost but the text is the best guide. Additionally, GPS6 is correctly listed (page 177) but the position on the map is wrong. It should be 200m due west of GPS5.
Walk 4
A few of you have contacted me to say Calle del General Franco doesn’t exist. Yesterday I checked it out. It’s true. Calle de la Iglesia has replaced Calle del General Franco. This is because Spain is slowly renaming everything ‘Franco’. Here follows more specific starting directions ...
Start in the Plaza Mayor in San Martín de Trevejo. With the Town Hall porch on your right, walk straight ahead and up Calle de la Iglesia. Ahead is the church. Pass the church with it on your left. Turn first right. Have a quick look behind you. You should see the back of the church and a sign for Calle del Puerto. With your back to the church and the sign, walk straight up the road ignoring all junctions. Come to a T-junction and a sign pointing left for 'Calzada Romana’ ‘Sendero Puerto Santa Clara'. Go left. Walk straight up this wide lane. (Continue with the walk as described in the book).
Chapter 4 The Sierra de Gredos and La Vera
Walk 2
The church on page 240 is called San Agustín and not Santa María de la Torre.
Chapter 5 Monfragüe National Park
Chapter 6 Las Villuercas
Walk 2
This walk has been recently signposted in white and red. Between GPS3 and GPS4, once past the rockfall continue on the path to reach a cattle grid. Go straight over this cattle grid and follow the track as described in the book. Updated 17.12.2017.
Chapter 7 City Walks
Walk 1 Revised and updated and posted on this site under 'The Walks, City Walks, The Walk of the Roman Citizen (Mérida)'
Walk 2 Revised and updated and posted on this site under 'The Walks, City Walks, A Walk in a Renaissance City (Cáceres)'
Walk 3 Revised and updated and posted on this site under 'The Walks, City Walks, A Walk with Conquistadores (Trujillo)'
Slideshow:
The slideshow above shows a few scenes from 'The Sierras of Extremadura' Walk 8, Valley Route to La Muela
Huge granite boulders at the top of the climb out from the village of La Garganta
Looking west down towards the Ambroz Valley and the town of Hervás
View of the granite rock formation of La Muela (the tooth)
Snow on the Sierra de Béjar with pink flowering Spanish Heath in the foreground
View of the Sierra de Béjar looking back from the final path to La Muela
View from La Muela looking north towards the Province of Salamanca in Castile and León
La Muela (1605m) from the track going back to La Garganta
Left: is the fourth edition, revised and expanded, of 'Extremadura' by Crossbill Guides.
The book contains everything a person might want to know about the natural environment of the region from geography, geology, birds and butterflies to trees, flowers, reptiles and amphibians. The text is informative and the photographs beautiful.
There are also 24 main routes to enjoy on foot or by vehicle.
crossbillguides.nl/extremadura
The book contains everything a person might want to know about the natural environment of the region from geography, geology, birds and butterflies to trees, flowers, reptiles and amphibians. The text is informative and the photographs beautiful.
There are also 24 main routes to enjoy on foot or by vehicle.
crossbillguides.nl/extremadura