City Walks
Introduction
Although most walkers come to Extremadura for the countryside, you are bound to be tempted to visit one or more of the historic cities; Mérida, Cáceres and Trujillo — so far but there are others worth visiting. As with any city, it is possible to waste time and exhaust yourself wandering around, finding some things by accident yet missing grander sights. My walks will take you on a route past the best there is to see with a minimal retracing of footsteps. However, they are neither architectural guides nor historical tours. My contribution is in the route planning so that you can concentrate on the sights.
In recent years Extremadura has made a big push to adorn all buildings of historical interest with information boards in English. Mérida’s signage is good but the signage in Cáceres is patchy. Trujillo’s efforts are excellent. Much can be understood and appreciated through the new signage and, consequently, that information need not be repeated here. For those of you who still want more, reasonable guide books in English are available and most tourist offices have someone who can speak English. The small amount of historical information that I have included here has been taken from many sources, mainly Spanish, but from no one special place.
A very brief history follows in order to increase the enjoyment of the walks.
The Celtiberian tribes of Extremadura were conquered by the Romans around 200 B.C. However, the indigenous peoples were not fully subjugated until c.50 B.C. Extremadura, along with modern Portugal, became Lusitania, the westernmost province of the Roman Empire. In 410, with the fall of the empire, the Christian Visigoths ruled but they enjoyed power only until 711 when the Moors invaded. They held sway in Extremadura for 500 years. In the late 12th century the Christians united to launch a serious campaign at reconquest. Led by three generations of the same royal family — that of Galicia, León, Castile and Toledo — the Christians came from the north (which the Moors had never conquered), from Portugal, and from the new Military Orders. During 62 long years of fighting, cities in Extremadura were conquered, lost, reconquered and, finally, held. It wasn’t all warfare though; one Christian king, Alfonso IX, somehow made time to father a minimum of 22 children (the exact figure is unknown) by at least six women. He also founded the University of Salamanca in 1215.
Victory brought rich rewards for the conquerors. The military orders and individual knights were awarded land and noble titles according to their bravery. They settled down to build fortified houses and palaces, govern, marry into each other’s families, fight with each other, raise children and see their cities grow prosperous through commerce, crafts and markets.
In 1469 Isabel of Castile married Ferdinand of Aragon; a calculated move towards uniting the various crowns of Spain. However the kingdom of Castile had a succession dispute in 1474. The power struggle was between Juana, daughter of Henry IV, and Henry’s half-sister, Isabel. Knights chose sides, sharpened swords and prayed they backed the winner. Isabel won. She rewarded her supporters in the usual way with land and titles.
The discovery of the New World in 1492 brought untold wealth into Extremadura and changed the balance of power. Formerly established noble families gave way to previously impoverished adventure-seekers who arrived back from exploits on the other side of the world with fabulous amounts of gold. Those who didn’t die in the New World settled down to enjoy their wealth — but most of the New World money went straight through Spain to fight religious wars in Europe.
The Peninsula War, 1808-1812, ravaged Extremadura and the bridges over the River Guadiana and River Tajo were as important to the Duke of Wellington as they had been to the Romans … and that is where I will leave the history for now.
Practical information
Public monuments in cities are open 7 days a week, usually from 10.00-14.00 and from 16.00-20.00 but evening closing times can be earlier in winter, or an hour later in summer. Museums are usually shut Sunday afternoons and all day Monday. In all the cities time your walk well. If you are going to see everything, work around the long lunch hours.
All cities have a wide range of accommodation and eating places so it is best you do your own research. The main squares are always great places for a drink and to watch the world go by, but for something a bit special seek out hidden spots in the walled cities, or in the smaller squares. For car parking, see the individual walks.
Maps
Use the map that accompanies each walk but because they are small they cannot show the name of every road. No matter. The roads that are not shown are not important for the walk. Follow the directions and road names in the text as they are the best guide.
Top photo: The balustrade of the Palace of the Weathervanes (Palacio de las Veletas), Cáceres
Introduction
Although most walkers come to Extremadura for the countryside, you are bound to be tempted to visit one or more of the historic cities; Mérida, Cáceres and Trujillo — so far but there are others worth visiting. As with any city, it is possible to waste time and exhaust yourself wandering around, finding some things by accident yet missing grander sights. My walks will take you on a route past the best there is to see with a minimal retracing of footsteps. However, they are neither architectural guides nor historical tours. My contribution is in the route planning so that you can concentrate on the sights.
In recent years Extremadura has made a big push to adorn all buildings of historical interest with information boards in English. Mérida’s signage is good but the signage in Cáceres is patchy. Trujillo’s efforts are excellent. Much can be understood and appreciated through the new signage and, consequently, that information need not be repeated here. For those of you who still want more, reasonable guide books in English are available and most tourist offices have someone who can speak English. The small amount of historical information that I have included here has been taken from many sources, mainly Spanish, but from no one special place.
A very brief history follows in order to increase the enjoyment of the walks.
The Celtiberian tribes of Extremadura were conquered by the Romans around 200 B.C. However, the indigenous peoples were not fully subjugated until c.50 B.C. Extremadura, along with modern Portugal, became Lusitania, the westernmost province of the Roman Empire. In 410, with the fall of the empire, the Christian Visigoths ruled but they enjoyed power only until 711 when the Moors invaded. They held sway in Extremadura for 500 years. In the late 12th century the Christians united to launch a serious campaign at reconquest. Led by three generations of the same royal family — that of Galicia, León, Castile and Toledo — the Christians came from the north (which the Moors had never conquered), from Portugal, and from the new Military Orders. During 62 long years of fighting, cities in Extremadura were conquered, lost, reconquered and, finally, held. It wasn’t all warfare though; one Christian king, Alfonso IX, somehow made time to father a minimum of 22 children (the exact figure is unknown) by at least six women. He also founded the University of Salamanca in 1215.
Victory brought rich rewards for the conquerors. The military orders and individual knights were awarded land and noble titles according to their bravery. They settled down to build fortified houses and palaces, govern, marry into each other’s families, fight with each other, raise children and see their cities grow prosperous through commerce, crafts and markets.
In 1469 Isabel of Castile married Ferdinand of Aragon; a calculated move towards uniting the various crowns of Spain. However the kingdom of Castile had a succession dispute in 1474. The power struggle was between Juana, daughter of Henry IV, and Henry’s half-sister, Isabel. Knights chose sides, sharpened swords and prayed they backed the winner. Isabel won. She rewarded her supporters in the usual way with land and titles.
The discovery of the New World in 1492 brought untold wealth into Extremadura and changed the balance of power. Formerly established noble families gave way to previously impoverished adventure-seekers who arrived back from exploits on the other side of the world with fabulous amounts of gold. Those who didn’t die in the New World settled down to enjoy their wealth — but most of the New World money went straight through Spain to fight religious wars in Europe.
The Peninsula War, 1808-1812, ravaged Extremadura and the bridges over the River Guadiana and River Tajo were as important to the Duke of Wellington as they had been to the Romans … and that is where I will leave the history for now.
Practical information
Public monuments in cities are open 7 days a week, usually from 10.00-14.00 and from 16.00-20.00 but evening closing times can be earlier in winter, or an hour later in summer. Museums are usually shut Sunday afternoons and all day Monday. In all the cities time your walk well. If you are going to see everything, work around the long lunch hours.
All cities have a wide range of accommodation and eating places so it is best you do your own research. The main squares are always great places for a drink and to watch the world go by, but for something a bit special seek out hidden spots in the walled cities, or in the smaller squares. For car parking, see the individual walks.
Maps
Use the map that accompanies each walk but because they are small they cannot show the name of every road. No matter. The roads that are not shown are not important for the walk. Follow the directions and road names in the text as they are the best guide.
Top photo: The balustrade of the Palace of the Weathervanes (Palacio de las Veletas), Cáceres